Engineered Garments peacoat for sale here. Engineered Garments, designed by Daiki Suzuki and under the umbrella of Japanese company Nepenthes, manufactures their products exclusively in the United States, and almost entirely in New York City. They aim to utilize some of the high quality materials and services available in the city and keep their factories going. One of their other main ideals is to update classic workwear pieces with a more modern approach. That’s often manifested in high quality materials, and sometimes more fashion-forward designs as well.
This is a pretty unique piece from the fall-winter 2022 collection, inspired by the “lighthouse” film from 2019 starring Robert Pattinson and Willem Dafoe. Normally EG’s inspirations are not quite that straightforward, but I suppose the film made an impact on Suzuki and hits a lot of the same points of inspiration EG normally has. That is, this jacket is strongly rooted in classic Americana and the traditional navy peacoat, although there are all kinds of details that set it apart.
Fabric here is what EG calls a “fake melton”: it is a custom textile for EG, meant to evoke a heavy melton wool. Exterior fabric is actually an 87% polyester, 10% rayon, 3% polyurethane blend. This sounds pretty different from a wool, but the execution is surprisingly excellent, where the fabric is very soft and comfortable but at the same time has very good heat retention. It is similar to a woven fleece, but looks and feels very much like a melton wool. It is similarly water resistant, is able to avoid the issues of piling often associated with wool products, and no need to worry about moth damage or anything like that. EG have also updated the fit, where this peacoat is very relaxed, much like a lot of current EG offerings. Aside from the fact that a lot of labels are going for a more relaxed look these days, it also makes practical sense, where you can easily layer under the jacket for especially cold days. This makes for an excellent winter shell, naturally insulating with the double breasted front and large shawl collar that can be turned up.
Other practical details include stitched reinforcements on the front button placket, cuff covers that can extent for bad weather and snap back into the cuff section and corduroy pocket linings (much like traditional peacoats). Back has a snap closure, where you can open it up if the mood strikes you. There is also an array of pockets, including the traditional two front pockets, but also two additional side pockets, as well as more pockets on the interior. You should be well covered for storage as well with this jacket.
As you can hopefully see a lot of thought has gone into all aspects of this jacket, from fabric to silhouette to details. Retail was about $800 in Japan, and this design is now completely sold out. Get it here much more reasonably.
Size is labeled a medium and fits relaxed. This can easily work for a large or even an XL in my opinion. I measure the chest at 25”, shoulders at 21”, length at 32” from the base of the neck, and sleeves at 24” from the shoulder. The piece comes in lightly used, very good shape, with no holes, tears or stains. Made in the USA.
Shipping from Japan to anywhere will be $40 (this is a heavy weight piece).