Up for sale here is a cotton peacoat from Mountain Research’s Naval Clothing Research line. Mountain Research is actually a part of “….. Research”, designed by Setsumasa Kobayashi, and started in 2007. Before …… Research, Kobayashi was the designed for a label called General Research, also a cult label in Japanese streetwear, very much a peer of Undercover, Bathing Ape and the like. General Research ran from 1993 to 2006. After that Kobayashi wanted to branch out into various types of clothing, hence the ….. Research label.
….. Research actually encompasses several labels, depending on where Kobayashi decides to focus. The longest running is Mountain Research. Other branches with intermittent releases have included Naval Clothing Research, Prisoner Research, War Field Wear Research, Horse Blanket Research, etc., etc.
Being a part of the Naval Clothing Research collection, this jacket is heavily inspired by the classic naval peacoat. Still, quite a few design elements are tweaked. For one, fabric here is 100% cotton, rather than the more traditional wool you find with peacoats. Fabric material makes this a good fall-spring jacket in my opinion. It is neither particularly light nor especially heavy, but more of a good all-rounder.
Details include double breasted formation with an array of large anchor buttons down the front. Top left button has an “N” logo added for good measure, while the interior button placket has an “N.C.F.R.” stamp. Collar features a throat latch which can be stowed internally or worn across the throat in the colder weather. Lapel also features a naval clothing research pull tag. This is something that Kobayashi has done since General Research, creating these season specific long tags. You can keep it there for a nice contrast, move it somewhere else, or do away with it all together if you prefer.
In all this is a pretty unique take on a timeless design, one that is pretty much impossible to find outside of Japan. Retail was quite high, but get it here at the cheapest price around.
Size is labeled a medium and fits true. I measure the chest at 20”, shoulders at 17”, length at 32” and sleeves at 25” from the shoulder. The jacket comes in lightly used, very good condition with no holes, tears or stains. Made in Japan.
Shipping from Japan to anywhere will be $30.