Up for sale here is a nice piece from the Devoa label, one of the smaller Japanese labels out there with a somewhat darker aesthetic. You can fit them in with the Viridi Anne, Julius, Incarnation and the like very easily, for example. Where each of these labels have their own emphasis, Devoa’s is very strongly on textiles and an anatomic fit. Textiles are always custom and patterns are always extremely detailed. The goal here is to allow a piece that both fits well and allows for maximum freedom of movement. The Viridi Anne the Kazuyuki Kumagai labels in particular have similar emphases on form and function, although Devoa tend to take things a step further.
In this case, we have a pretty unique silhouette where the legs curve around with a somewhat longer inseam. When worn, the top block looks like a pair of traditional pants, somewhat slim fitting, while the bottom block bunches up nicely around the legs. The fit is just on the right side of slim, and as always with Devoa you can expect everything to be premium quality.
Fit aside, there are some interesting details here. For one, Devoa always uses custom textiles. In this case the fabric feels similar to a denim, but not quite as rough. It’s a softer fabric with some denim-like characteristics. Fabric is a 70% cotton, 30% washi blend. Washi is actually traditional form of Japanese paper, slow milled and much stronger than a western “paper” fabric. It is traditionally used in various applications such as household goods, toys and clothing. Rather than western wood pulp-based paper, washi paper weaves various wood fibers, creating a surprisingly strong textile. It is something closer to linen or hemp, where it is totally fine in rain and the wash, and is one of those fabrics that will develop a patina over time.
Other details include some leather on the waistband, a diagonal fly with a custom zip pull, hook and eye closure on the waistband, and red selvedge line on the waistband and pocket interiors. Needless to say, a considerable level of detail goes into Devoa’s pieces. Production runs are small and retail does not come cheap, where these pants cost about $575 outside of Japan. Get it here at a fraction of that.
Size is labeled a 2, equivalent to a standard medium or a 32” waist in this case. I measure the waist at 32” and rise at 12”. The inseam is a bit difficult to measure given the curve in the fabric, but I would put it at approx. 32”. Opening at the bottom of the leg is approx. 7”. The pants come in used, generally good condition. Only issue to note is that there is a bit of visible fading throughout. Otherwise no holes, tears or stains. Made in Japan.
Shipping from Japan to anywhere will be $30.