Up for sale here is a jacket from the Oni label, one of the smaller Japanese denim specialist labels, although unlike a good number of Japanese brands these guys seem to have fairly decent distribution abroad. They’ve also got a bit more notoriety because of it, but it is very much deserved. Oni doesn’t put out a large range of products, but what they do release is always something special. These guys are very much on the “specialist” side of denim, where all of their pieces are some really unique denims, usually very slubby, highly uneven and with a lot of character. This is often achieved using vintage shuttle looms which allow for much more of a handmade feel.
This comes from Oni’s pretty limited jacket range. Silhouettes are usually classic type II and type III jackets, sometimes as coveralls as you see here, while the materials are often very unique. These jackets are produced in summer and winter weight fabrics, usually with pretty unique dye jobs as well. What we have here is model number ONI-03502, otherwise known as the “20oz asphalt denim coverall”. This is a 20oz denim, on the heavier end of the denim spectrum. Fabric is Oni’s signature highly textured, somewhat irregular weave. These pieces are done on vintage shuttle looms and really no one comes close to the textures that Oni produces. If you are into denim they are well worth seeking out.
The asphalt denim is a more recent Oni development, reportedly taking them over a year to develop. It is very similar in look and feel to their “secret denim”. That is, it is highly textured, made of a specially twisted, thick yarn woven at low tension on vintage shuttle looms. The fabric is reportedly thick and rugged like asphalt, and should loosen up with wear.
The development of the denim is another one of Oni’s strong points. They make their products with aging in mind, and part of the journey is to see how the jacket develops over time. Details include exterior chest pocket with selvedge line, two side pockets and an interior pocket, branded metal buttons down the front, and label tag at the bottom of the jacket. Retail on these jackets is about $400 and they are now completely sold out.
Size is labeled a 40 and fits like a standard medium. I measure the chest at 20” / 52cm, shoulders at 17” / 43cm, length at 28” / 72cm from the base of the neck and sleeves at 24” / 60cm from the shoulder. The jacket comes in lightly used, very good shape. There is some minor fading of the indigo here and there, but no holes, tears or stains. Made in Japan.
Shipping from Japan to anywhere will be $30.
