For sale here is a wool overcoat from Comme des Garcons’ Homme collection. This is a vintage piece from 1997, back when Keiichi Tanaka was the head designer for the Homme line (which has since been overseen by Junya Watanabe). While Comme des Garcons is rightly regarded as one of the foremost Japanese avant garde labels out there, Tanaka is one of the more undersung actors in the CDG universe. He designed for a number of the CDG collections from 1990-2003 and has only coming been into his own among collectors outside of Japan in more recent years. Tanaka often employed a more relaxed aesthetic, using high quality materials and always adding some kind of a twist to the design. Still, the designs with Tanaka’s Homme line are timeless and easily hold up today.
With all that said this is a seemingly simple black melton wool coat. Material is a 92% wool, 8% nylon blend. It is a thick, heavy weave ideal for the colder seasons. The coat is unlined but the fit is relaxed, making it ideal to layer underneath as necessary. That is actually the intention with this kind of piece, where you could wear a jacket or an insulating liner. The tight wool weave is also naturally insulating and water resistant.
Design with the Tanaka Homme pieces is all about what is included as well as what is excluded. Aesthetic is generally minimal but there are these little details that always pop up. Here we have a zipper closure, buttoned collar and buttons on the sides to adjust the fit. Front has three pockets, as well as a fourth pocket sticking out of the right side pocket. That fourth pocket is in a gray nylon, making for a nice visual contrast with the rest of the coat.
These coats were produced in very limited quantities, were very difficult track down especially outside of Japan, and were very expensive at retail. Tanaka Homme pieces are becoming collector’s items these days, but get a very interesting piece here at the cheapest price around.
Size is labeled a medium and fits intentionally relaxed, where this can easily work for a large. I measure the chest at 24”, shoulders at 19”, length at 34.5” and sleeves at 24” from the shoulder. The coat comes in lightly used, very good shape especially for its age. Only one issue to note: the zipper at the bottom has started to fray a bit. Zipper still works very well, but the zipping process is not quite as buttery smooth as it used to be. Otherwise no holes, tears or stains. Made in Japan.
Shipping from Japan to anywhere will be $40.