Up for sale here is a woolen jacket from French label Hervier Productions. Hervier are pretty unique in that they’re a French heritage label, still producing exclusively in France. There are a handful of similar French labels including Laboureur, Orcival, Danton and the like. Hervier definitely fits in with all of these, although their designs seem to steer just a bit toward something modern at the same time. In Hervier’s case they run a factory in central France, where Hervier Productions is house label (and has been active since 2011). They are also known for doing some interesting collaborations, often with Japanese labels. Probably best known is their work with Junya Watanabe and the Anatomica label’s made in France line.
Here we have a really cool piece, a personal favorite in fact. Hervier have adapted the classic submarine jacket into something a bit different and modern. The submarine jacket is a vintage military piece, where specialist labels like the Real McCoys and Buzz Rickson have produced their own iterations. This version has been updated somewhat in terms of fit, the use large side zips, and with the materials.
Exterior fabric is a 90% wool, 10% nylon blend done in a medium weight. The big appeal for me, however, is the incorporation of a thermolite interlining. Thermolite is not a material I have encountered too often (only from a handful of Undercover pieces actually), but it is a technical fabric used to provide a surprisingly high level of warmth. Thermolite is not extra padding and it creates no additional bulk or anything along those lines. Still, it is extremely well insulating, described as being easily on par with down. I tried it out for use in the Japanese winter and it easily holds up. I cannot speak to places with more extreme climates, but it is seriously robust and has the advantage of none of the bulk you usually associate with down. Unlike down, thermolite is also much better at regulating temperature in less extreme conditions, where like a quality wool it is not quite as insulting when the weather turns warmer.
All of that aside, there are some other interesting design details. Like the classic submarine jacket you can wear the collar both up and down. The large zipped pockets on the front are convenient for storage and also help to set the jacket apart from other pieces. In addition to the thermolite lining, the jacket is fully lined in a cupro / polyester blend.
In all, we have a very interesting piece here, one that combines vintage heritage and more technical, modern details. It’s definitely unusual to find this kind of piece from a more heritage-inclined label, but it mixes these two worlds extremely well. Retail was about $500, but get it here much more reasonably.
Size is labeled a 4, corresponding to a medium or large, depending on how you like the fit. I measure the chest at 22”, shoulders at 17”, length at 29” and sleeves at 25” from the shoulder. The jacket comes in lightly used, generally good shape. There is some piling throughout, but no holes, tears or stains. Made in France.
Shipping from Japan to anywhere will be $36.